How many times have you heard things like, “Butcher block looks nice, but it’s a hassle,” or “Wood in the kitchen? That’s not serious”? Honestly, I used to think the same way—until I installed it in my own home. My wife and I were updating our kitchen island and wanted something warm, simple, and reliable. We ended up choosing butcher block—and we’ve never regretted it. The wood instantly made our kitchen feel cozier and more alive. But with that warmth came a few important questions: how do you install it properly, what kind of finish should you use, and how do you protect it from moisture?
At first glance, a butcher block may seem like a simple solution. But if it’s mounted incorrectly, it can crack. If you don’t allow for wood expansion, the surface may warp over time. And without proper sealing, the wood can easily become damaged.
That’s exactly why I’ve decided to gather everything you need to know before you start: the difference between an insert and a full countertop, the tools required, the best fastening methods, finishing options, and care guidelines.
If you’ve been thinking about butcher block but don’t know where to start, this step-by-step guide will walk you through it all. No complicated jargon or confusing instructions—just practical advice that worked for me and others who took the leap into wood. Let’s dive in!
In short, butcher block is a wooden countertop made of glued-together strips of hardwood. The most common species used are maple, beech, oak, or acacia*. This material has a natural, warm look—especially when paired with kitchens that have a lot of stone, metal, or cool-toned finishes.
What I liked most about butcher block was its simplicity. It feels like nature itself and only gets better and warmer over time. You can choose where to use it: as an accent—like a butcher block insert in countertop—or as the main surface. Both options work well; they just serve different purposes.
If you're looking to bring warmth and life into your kitchen, butcher block can be a great solution. It works especially well on islands or in prep zones. And it feels very different to the touch compared to quartz or concrete: always slightly warm, not slippery, and quieter under plates and cups. You feel the difference immediately—and most people love it.
*Acacia is also used for butcher block, but mostly in budget-friendly options from IKEA and Home Depot. It’s not the most stable material when it comes to humidity changes, and most professional woodworkers don’t recommend it for built-in countertops. However, it’s fairly common in affordable pre-made butcher block panels.
Sometimes there’s no need to replace the entire countertop—especially if it’s made of stone or concrete and still in great shape. But when you want to bring in something warmer and more natural, that’s when a butcher block insert in a countertop makes sense. It’s a wood section embedded into an existing surface. It can be round, rectangular, narrow—whatever suits your needs. The main thing is that it should be functional.
These inserts are typically placed near the stove or sink—where you do most of your chopping. It’s super convenient: you don’t need to pull out a cutting board, wood is easy on your knives, and it all looks neat and intentional. The insert pairs beautifully with natural stone (granite, marble, quartzite) and quartz—wood creates a cozy contrast.
But there are also a few things to keep in mind. Wood can’t just be dropped in and forgotten. You need to install it properly and protect the edges—especially if it’s near water or steam. Otherwise, over time, the block may darken, warp, or separate from the base. To help you avoid those issues, I’ll walk you through exactly how to install a butcher block insert in a countertop in the next section—step by step, covering all the technical details.
If you’ve decided to add a butcher block insert in a countertop, it’s not just about cutting a hole and dropping the wood into place. Wood is a living material—it absorbs moisture, expands, and contracts. So, the installation requires some care. Below is a step-by-step guide on how to install butcher block countertops partially—as an insert—without replacing the entire surface:
Tip: Use food-grade oil—it’s safe for food prep and gives the wood a soft, beautiful tone. And don’t forget to reapply the finish at least once a month—we’ll cover that later in the article.
If you’re already confident in your choice and ready to start the install—let’s go over how to do it right.
A full wood countertop requires more attention than an insert. Everything matters here: level cabinets, proper placement, secure mounting, and of course, protection. But don’t worry—nothing’s too complicated if you take your time and follow a few basic rules. Below, I’ll explain how to install butcher block countertops yourself.
Check the base
Make sure all your cabinets are level and securely fastened. Even a small tilt can cause the countertop to sit unevenly or shift over time. Use a level to check the surface along its entire length. It’s better to spend a few extra minutes adjusting now than to fix problems later.
Test fit the butcher block
Lay the panel on top and see how it fits on the base. Leave a small gap—around 1/8 inch—on all sides, especially where it meets the wall. This is important because wood can expand or contract depending on humidity and temperature. Without that space, it may warp. So always leave a bit of breathing room and avoid pressing the butcher block tightly against tile or cabinetry.
Make the necessary cutouts
For sinks, cooktops, or outlets—cut carefully to avoid damaging the edges. Tip: Treat all cut edges immediately with oil or sealant. The end grain is the most vulnerable part of butcher block—it absorbs moisture quickly. If left untreated, the wood can darken, swell, or even crack. So it’s best to seal the edges before installation—it’s much harder to do afterward.
Secure the countertop from underneath
Use mounting brackets or Z-clips.
Important: Don’t screw the butcher block down too tightly—especially not from the top—as that can lead to cracks. When securing it from underneath, leave a bit of flexibility in the brackets so the wood can shift slightly with changes in humidity and temperature. That’s completely normal—natural wood expands and contracts over time. If you fasten it too firmly, it can crack or warp.
Finish the surface
Right after installation, apply the first coat of oil—especially around the edges, near the sink, and at seams. Don’t forget the underside—moisture can come from below, too.
When I was doing my research, I came across a homeowner on Reddit who shared this cautionary tale:
“I screwed the butcher block close to the wall, no gap. After a month, the wood bent and the whole table top arched. I had to take it all off and start again.”
If you take your time and do it carefully, your butcher block will last for many years.
Installing butcher block countertops is only half the job. The real work begins afterward: protecting the wood. Without proper sealing, your butcher block will absorb moisture, darken, crack, or warp—especially if it’s installed near a sink or stove.
There are two goals for finishing: to prevent moisture from soaking in and to stop the wood from drying out. Most people use one of three options—oil, varnish, or sealant—each with its own features.
This is the most popular option, especially if you plan to cut food directly on the countertop.
Oil needs to be reapplied more frequently than other finishes—every 3–4 weeks for the first six months, then as needed. If the surface looks dull or absorbs water instantly, it’s time for a new coat.
A natural, deeply penetrating oil with stronger moisture resistance.
Downside: This oil takes longer to dry (sometimes up to 24 hours between coats) and requires careful application. If you apply too much or too thickly, the surface may feel sticky or develop blotchy spots. So it’s important to apply thin, even layers and ventilate the room well.
If you don’t plan to cut food directly on the surface and just want a long-lasting, water-resistant finish, varnish is a good choice.
Apply 2–3 coats. It usually needs to be refreshed every 2–3 years, or when cracks and scratches appear.
Sealant isn’t meant to cover the entire surface, but to protect seams, edges, and cutouts—especially near the sink, cooktop, or any place where wood meets another material.
If you want your butcher block to keep looking good for years, don’t cut corners on protection. It’s better to spend an evening sealing everything thoroughly than to start over in a few months.
I’m not a designer, honestly, but lately I’ve been reading more and more articles about kitchen design. I especially enjoyed the ones by Debra Morgan—she writes for our site and does a great job explaining how to make different materials and styles work together. Thanks to her tips, I’ve started to get a better sense of what looks best with butcher block.
While prepping this article, I browsed through tons of examples—Pinterest, blogs, real-life kitchens. Then I showed everything I found to Debra—she gave the thumbs-up and said the combinations really work. So what you’ll see below isn’t just my opinion; it’s based on our shared experience.
Here are three combinations that, in my opinion, truly stand out and are seen more often than others:
One of the most popular pairings. People often use quartz—like white Calacatta—for the main prep zone, and then highlight an island or wall section with warm wood. Here, the wood acts as an accent: soft, cozy, and lively. Visually, the kitchen looks more upscale and layered.
For more on trendy quartz countertop combinations, check out the article “How to Choose a Stylish and Durable Countertop for Your Kitchen: Trendy Solutions for 2025.”
The contrast between warm wood and the cool, slightly rugged look of concrete works beautifully in modern and industrial spaces. It often pairs well with open shelving, black hardware, and a minimalist aesthetic. One effective layout is to use concrete around the stove and butcher block on the island.
This pairing is for those who aren’t afraid of bold choices. Black granite brings depth and formality, while butcher block adds warmth and visual softness. Together, they’re especially striking if you also play with cabinet contrast—like light cabinets on one wall and dark ones on another, or a warm-toned island set against black cabinetry.
These combinations let you define different functional zones—prep, serving, dining—while also making it easier to integrate butcher block into kitchens that already feature other materials. The key is to think ahead about how everything will work visually and functionally as a whole.
Most issues with butcher block don’t come from the material itself—they come from how it’s installed. I’ve gathered the most common mistakes here, so you know what to watch out for:
This is probably the number one enemy of butcher block. Wood “breathes”: it expands with humidity and contracts in dry environments. If you screw it down tightly, it can crack or ripple over time—especially on islands or near walls.
What to do: Use elongated holes in brackets and leave about 1/8 inch of clearance around the edges. Wood needs a little freedom to move.
Many people oil only the top surface and forget about the edges—especially around sink or cooktop cutouts. But those are the areas most exposed to moisture, which can quickly start to damage the wood.
What to do: Treat all exposed cuts—top, bottom, and sides. Pay extra attention to spots where the wood meets other materials.
Even a perfectly installed butcher block will lose its protection over time. The oil wears off, and the surface dries out and may crack. This is especially noticeable in dry, heated homes.
What to do: During the first few months, reapply oil every 3–4 weeks. Then as needed. If a drop of water soaks in instantly—it’s time for a fresh coat.
When people install a butcher block insert in a countertop, they often forget to leave any clearance. The result? The wood swells, gaps appear, or it pops out of the opening.
What to do: Leave at least a 1/8-inch gap around the insert, and seal the seams with caulk. A little breathing room is better than stress and cracking.
Polyurethane near a cutting surface? Or oil where there’s standing water? That leads to scratches and peeling—or swelling and water damage.
What to do: Choose the right finish for the right area. Oil (like Howard Cutting Board Oil or Walrus Oil) for prep zones. Varnish or tung oil for areas with high moisture. And always seal the seams and edges.
Here’s a little trick a contractor once shared with me—and I’ve been doing it ever since:
“Before I apply oil for the first time, I tape off the edges of the butcher block with painter’s tape and write the date on it. Super handy—you always know when the last coat went on, and you never forget when it’s time to reapply. It’s a small thing—but it works.”
To install a butcher block insert in a countertop, cut an opening to match the size of the block and be sure to leave about a 1/8-inch gap around the edges. Then, drop the block into the cutout and secure it underneath using brackets or clips. Be sure to seal the seams with caulk, especially if it’s near a sink or stove.
If you’re looking for how to install butcher block countertops, start by checking the base—make sure it’s level and secure. Set the countertop with a small gap near the wall, and fasten it from below using flexible mounting hardware (like Z-clips). After installation, seal the surface with oil or varnish. It’s totally doable—just don’t rush it.
Yes, but only with the right protection. Apply a finish (like tung oil, varnish, or sealant) and keep it maintained. For sink or cooktop cutouts, be extra careful to treat the edges and seal all seams with caulk.
If you're installing a butcher block island (how to install butcher block island), attach it from underneath using sliding brackets—like Z-clips or elongated screw holes. Never screw it down tight: the wood must be able to expand. And don’t forget to treat the underside and all edges.
It depends on the area. Oil (like Howard Cutting Board Oil or Walrus Oil) is perfect for food prep zones—it’s safe and easy to reapply. Varnish (like Minwax Polyurethane or General Finishes Arm-R-Seal) is better for wet zones and creates a tough surface, but it’s not ideal for cutting. There’s also a middle ground—tung oil, which offers durability while keeping the wood’s natural texture.
If you still have questions or need help finding a contractor, check out The First National Ranking of Stone Countertop Fabricators and Installers in the U.S. — you’ll find only vetted professionals from across the country.
So, is butcher block really that much of a hassle?
If you do it right, it’s no trouble at all. The key is to take your time and follow a few simple rules: leave a gap, use oil, fasten the countertop from underneath—not the top. This isn’t a “set it and forget it” kind of surface. But if you approach it with care, you’ll get a reliable, beautiful work surface that lasts for years.
I’ve shared everything I’ve learned and tested myself—how to install, how to treat, where to use it, and what to pair it with. I hope butcher block makes a lot more sense to you now. And if you decide to give it a try—take your time, do it right, and may your kitchen become the kind of place where you actually want to spend time!
Important: This article is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional consultation. We’ve done our best to describe the process accurately, but every project is different. You follow this guide at your own risk, and the author and editorial team are not responsible for any issues that may arise during installation.
If you’re unsure about any step—it’s always better to call in a professional.
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